Cabochard

Just a note of interest for those of you who keep saying stuff about the "creamy coconut" in Cabochard. There is no coconut in this fragrance. For reasons unknown, Fragrantica keeps listing "coconut" instead of Castoreum in nearly every single scent that contains this note. I don't know why they do this, but I think it's confusing some folks who keep expecting a sweet, slightly tropical flavor instead of the deeply resonant and leathery beaver gland effluvium.

La mia bottiglia è dell85, versione vintage. Questo profumo è molto buono come ingredienti ma troppo maschile anche per un uomo. Severo, freddo, duro, su una donna la rende austera,come una vecchia istitutrice tedesca di un collegio femminile. Una lesbica mascolina,una donna frigida. Questa fragranza rilassa e rinfresca,riporta la mente affaticata ad occuparsi tranquillamente di se stessa, contemplare il mare ventoso,passeggiare ,riflettere. Ma spegne ogni tipo di erotismo, allontana gli uomini, allontana il sesso persino dai pensieri. Assomiglia a Bandit di Piguet, altro profumo ideato per lesbiche all'origine e infatti poco erotico. Ribadisco che è un profumo molto buono,dal fondo coriaceo e scivoloso di cocco,tabacco,cuoio,e agrumi.

Men who are looking for that "vintage smell" to maybe match a vintage outfit OR just to feel like you're are going to a swank 1950s club : BUY THIS NOW it's so affordable ! Badass hard black leather with a smoky dangerous vibe . YOU ARE The Wild One ! I have NO idea how and why this was marketed to women UNLESS they are a dominatrix in Betty Page gear.

Cabochard is hated by many because it doesn't "deliver" what they usually look for in a perfume. It's brutal and serious, it's not playful nor delicate, it's straight forward and that can be annoying to some. It's very cold, present but distant and somehow arrogant. A bit strident, it seems tactless at first glance, yet it remains reserved throughout the approximately 10 hours of longevity. In terms of construction, it's dusty, it doesn't bring that creamy leather, but instead you get the harsh, dry version. It also has something that reminds me of the Duru soaps of the past. Overall, I smell moss, tobacco, aldehydes, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, spices and sage. It's not necessarily a bad boy, but if the resemblance to Bandit is justified (I haven't sampled it), both names assigned really go hand in hand (cabochard = stubborn). I tried Aramis Aramis instead and can confirm they are very much similar. Cabochard reminds me of an O de Lancôme deprived of the effervescence of the citrus notes, somewhat lacking in freshness. A pile of dusty old leather-bound books, over which someone has overturned a pot of aromatic plants, soil and leaves everywhere. A gust of sand in the middle of summer, which, however, does not announce any hint of a storm. It has personality, but without being cheeky. I see it worn to complete an outfit made up of a pair of Dr. Martens boots, boyfriend jeans and a classic shirt to which a vintage brooch has been attached, maybe a cameo. Definitely unisex, but not for men who prefer sweet-gourmand aromas like Black XS. I wear it usually in a combo layering with Ma Dame by JPG which amplifies its otherwise almost imperceptible rose note and gives it a sweet-sour boost that softens its aridity and takes it out of the darkness by giving it that spark it lacks. Ideal for rainy weather. In drydown it's really adorable. 🎀

Just received a full bottle of the vintage edt from the early 70's and it's really magical. I've also got the modern edt (with the black fabric bow) and while you can tell they're both Cabochard, the vintage edt is deeper, slightly less aldyhidic, and a bit funkier. I think i'll layer the two together for the best effect. This is definitely a chypre. I don't get fougere vibes (as the commenter below suggested) at all.

Tested the vintage version today. More fougere than chypre, the florals where barely there. It was more a soapy green leather fougere than a leather chypre. But it's still very good. Longevity is very good but stays close to the skin. 7.5/10

Sharing my experience with the 70’s vintage parfum extrait. This is the black and white ‘branches’ box in the .5 FLOZ 15cc size with a gray bow around the neck of the small bottle which has stopper. NOT the current formulation which I have never tried. I will start with strength. It is fairly strong and sillage is to be respected. It is characteristic of, say, 50’s parfums from a time when women wore classic fragrances that carried. I put a small dab on my left wrist and the scent made its presence felt several feet around me. If I wore this in public people would know I was coming without seeing me. At this rate the bottle would last me an eternity. Next I would like to mention that I was interested in perhaps understanding the context of the time and creation of Cabochard and I watched some YouTube videos on Madame Grés and her wonderful haute couture creations, my god!! That pleating and draping!! Recommended viewing if you are interested in this subject. But onto Cabochard… Initially it is very boozy and was like a rich bourbon’s bouquet which lasted maybe 15 minutes and subsided giving way to something more aldehydic, but not bright, more heavy with some earthy tones and perhaps some distant dense florals if I reach for them. I do not necessarily get leather, or I should say, a prominent leather such as I would get from a leather jacket but more from a leather shoe that I would only notice if I held it close to my nose. At this stage some animalics come out, not strong but noticeable. This phase goes on for a few hours. The images I was getting was of a below street level bar/club in Manhattan in the 1950’s (late fall/early winter) where when you opened the door you are hit with a mixture of cigarettes and strong perfume. I was not getting cigarettes from Cabochard but more of a suggestion of it. I imagined that, being the 50’s, people were dressed up, women wearing clinched waist cocktail suits. The wearing of Cabochard in this imaginary setting sends out a not-so-subtle message that the women here are out of my league. But then it progresses to its late stages where Cabochard, for me at least, transitioned to something else unexpected. Faded and eventually gone are the leather, earthy and ’50’s nightclub’ feel and more of the florals remain. They are not bright florals but dense and heavy and then it hits me….this, for sure, is what my aunt wore in the 1960’s when I was very young. She was a school teacher in her 40’s and when you are 6 years old, someone in their 40’s seems, well, I will say mature. And it is that reminiscence of late stage Cabochard that I was left with. All this I got from a small dab on my left wrist - powerful stuff. Perhaps the EdT of EdP is more open but the vintage parfum is feminine and dense. If you were into vintage clothing from this time period, Cabochard would complete your getup

Spiced woods and leather, bitter herbs and mixed florals (geranium, ylang-ylang, etc)? I do recall a note that reminded me of coriander seed (unlisted) but perhaps a blend of other pungent notes, such as sage or the truly unusual mention of asafoetida? Ultimately, it's hard to distinguish much in such a finely and complexly blended formula. But the overall efect is that of flowers heavily doused with bitter green herbs. The feeling is a bit rough, harsh, or as the name suggests, stubborn. More so on skin than blotter. It really comes off more as a masculine chypre, yet one marketed to women. While not irresistable, this is an intrigung curiosity to sample, ...but its overall barbershop feel would make it rather eccentrically vintage to actually wear.

Leather and oak moss and soap. Quite strong. Smells like a men’s cologne. Bold.

"Chanel no5 that smokes a pack a day" is probably my favorite summary of this perfume; brava, Ammi123! I don't think she meant it as a compliment, but I Iove this perfume and it's completely accurate!

Cabochard was a gateway of sorts into my exploration of classic fragrances, and I now own the modern EDP, vintage EDP, and vintage parfum. I marveled at its confidence and strong bone structure, the way it activates my synesthesia as a glinting of light contrasted with dark shadows. It feels like gold—gold light, gold leaves, gold sagebrush, golden waves of seriousness and beauty. Cabochard is dry and fierce, grassy and leathery, loose tobacco leaves and tightly wound vetiver, seasoned with hing and making my senses ring. It's an old modern and a modern "old," a Chant via Cellier pastiche a la Bandit of styrallyl acetate, isobutyl quinoline, ionones, and grit. Brilliant in its own right, a floral streak in film moire, fooling you into being in lockstep with its time period, but revealing its timelessness through its spell.

When i close my eyes and smell Cabochard EDP on my wrist, it gives me a vivid image of a big antique book, bound in dark brown leather, full od dried sagebrush pressed between the pages. And wooden attic of my grandma's village house in the summmer. It was used to store dry hay, her cat used to have kittens there. To me, it is more a time travel, than a perfume. Lovely!

Made me smell like a weevil 7/10

This smells like the experience of coming home at 7am after a night out, makeup melted, alcohol and cigarettes smoke on clothes and that after taste, and going to sleep straight because you're too hungover. You wake up after two hours and think 'damn, I have to brush my teeth, and I'm never drinking again!' Well, what can I say- I was scared buying this because of the notes and the reviews. It's not extremely unpleasant- similar to Cahnel no.5, (but a Chanel no5 that smokes a pack a day) Shalimar, Samsara.. but masculine as heck! Old fashioned, vintage, strong... I got the eau de toilette for $14 because I was intrigued. I would not purchase an EDP or a bigger bottle, and if there wasn't a bow on it, my dad would maybe consider using it. I don't think it's a safe blind buy or a good gift. Smells parfumey + the inside of a chain smoker's mouth. It will make you cough and fry your nose hairs, but I can see the oriental idea of it. I much prefer Shalimar, if we're going for the old fashion vibe.

Pro-Tip: Seek out the bottle in TOP PHOTO ABOVE for this page! I purchased a bottle off ebay and received the newer SQUAT version instead of the LONG one! Now- the new ones really do smell fine but , you know, the older the better I say! That said , I do also LOVE Bandit (and I implore you to test out Robert Piguet's other fragrances if you can). This is like half-Bandit . Which is not bad at all! Bandit smells like a HARD black leather pair of shoes in an antique store (or an antique doctor's house call leather bag from 1902). And the price of Cabochard is so cheap (they could charge DOUBLE and I'd pay it). Lastly any of you guys or dolls looking for that "next day whiff of cigarette on clothes smell" ... here it is. $28.00 for a full sized bottle ! Win/Win/Win ! One of my best BLIND BUYS. This layers VERY WELL with hyper-floral perfumes !

I’ve only been into perfume for the last year. I’ve been following a lot of the sub Reddit’s and loving all the information that I’m gaining, I always notice there are questions on what are your top 10 fragrances that you could not live without. And I would list in my head would have 10 ish. There’s a difference between perfumes that you love and perfumes that you cannot live without and I can say today that I could not live without Cabochard in my collection. Prior to this revelation, I would’ve told you that my must haves would be Grand Soir. Nope not on my list I finally understand what it means to have a few perfumes that you would be buried with

The consensus description of this is “a bitter leather chypre, but lighter and more elegant than Bandit”, and that’s pretty much what I smell. Bone-dry, smoky leather and bitter oakmoss predominate in both; but where Bandit has that “meaty” leather-jacket richness, Cabochard is a little lighter, more flinty, with a sparkling citrus opening (smells like orange peel to me) and a more detectable mean-green galbanum note, as well as a little more airy floralcy (probably from the rose-jasmine heart.) I love Bandit, because it’s so definite and unpretentiously itself. You want leather? you got leather. Cabochard is more classical and complicated, which makes it probably a better perfume, but less of a comforting magic potion. For some reason, Cabochard makes me think of museum gardens full of midcentury modern sculptures – 50′s-era Picassos, or Noguchis, full of that sense of an exciting, international future… Oh, and cabochard means “stubborn cuss.” Which suits me fine.

Ijust received my vintage Cabochard EDT. Omg it’s fantastic. Absolutely one of a kind . Kicks your nose into attention. Nothing new competes it’s legally not possible. I love vintage and own many, this experience is unique

An earthy explosion baby!! 🌳🍃 I find this to be a classy and classic vintage scent that makes me feel like I’m going through a Time Machine, absolutely beautiful 🙏🏽

When I was 16 in 1968 my big brother toured Europe on a motorbike and brought back me a bottle of Cabochard. Whenever I wore it I got loads of compliments and people wanted to know it was. Over the years I’ve had lots of perfume but always have some Cabochard. Back then you could get bubble bath, body lotion and posh talc (came in a box with a big powder puff) but I haven’t seen them for years. The bath stuff was amazing, it was the most glorious blue and scented the whole house. I was lucky to accidentally funded a perfume that is “me” and it’s not expensive. Funnily enough I had a new friend years later and found out it was her favourite as well.

a good prelude for Aramis, but Aramis is more refined

As a lover of Aromatics Elixir, ( wore it in the 80's with great success) I also love this. Never did wear Cabochard back then, but should have. Oh, the cloudy aldehydic blast when I first spray this on...it's like fresh air mixed with woods and ylang, and something green.... I purchased the EDP, so I expected a better performance. It lasts longer on clothes than my skin but I don't care, I love it ..I sprayed quite heavily and was carried away..felt a bit reminiscent, nostalgic for those older days... I can see that this may not appeal to the younger crowd. But, if you like vintage, give it a try. I'm kind of glad I didn't wear the original as I'm sure nothing today would smell nearly as wonderful.

I have long-since adored the current formulation of Cabochard, but have always remained curious of a more vintage composition. And so I set out to find an old EDT bottle, and my god is it breathtaking. There are few classics which embody the idea of leather as Cabochard does, it is simply a master stroke of Bernard Chant’s genius. The scent is based upon a central leathery core of isobutyl quinoline as all great leather scents are, but it’s balanced beautifully by its violet-like ionones interplaying with rose and jasmine. It’s very dry in the base; patchouli, tobacco, Vetiver and spices mingle with the leather creating a bold and headstrong aroma, as the name Cabochard suggests. This truly is one of the great classics of French perfumery, a lesson to anyone bold enough to tackle the leather-chypre subfamily. Whilst the vintage is stunning, and well worth experiencing, I would still opt for the current formulation to wear day to day because of the much improved longevity.

Absolutely bone dry. It’s a chypre in the same vein as Aromatics Elixir (same perfumer). Cabochard has an amazing amount of oak moss, which I love, but there’s just too much in the way of dry woody notes. The aldehydes on top and the tobacco in the base make it unbearable to me, and there’s something that AE and Cabochard have in common that gives me a headache. I can appreciate the beauty of both, but I cannot wear them.

I dont wear this but i cant get rid of it. I keep going back to crack the lid and smell it. I would genuinely miss this bottle if i got rid of it. smokey, oakmoss and leather. The leather is what throws me but thats a personal preference thing. The oakmoss is lovely though. It doesnt go cat pissy the way aromatics elixir and aramis 900 do on my skin. But i still prefer to wear Explosive for a vintage “cheapre”

I purchased Cabochard as a blind buy back in the 90s. I always keep a bottle in my collection and I do wear it because it smells like the inside of my mother’s purse did when I was a kid. I think it’s a mix of Doublemint gum, those dark gray mints (do they still sell those?, heavy on the liquorice and anise) and a hankie.

(this is serious and long review, skip if not interested, thank you) Imagine elegance and mystery as one. That's Cabochard. Like elegance is not easy to achieve and particularly a mystery (person is born with), that's how hard is to wear and love this fragnance. This is not for everyone, anyone or just fast choice. This is very very serious fragnance, with particular stubbornness and allure. It carries name "stubborn." It is stubborn. It is elegant. It is complex. It is dark. It is intelligent. It is space taking. It is ignorant. It is mature femininity captured in the beautiful elegant bow bottle. It's everything that the cattle hate. It steps out. It is politically incorrect. It's a shield of dark, mysterious femininity. In my whole life I never meet female wearing this perfume. That always intriqué me to think why. When I got it first time I was very young. I keep it in my collection of perfumes and testers endlessly. I didn't understand it, I couldn't wear it, while I knew it is special and important perfumes history. It's a perfume that scares you. Like a dark, beautiful lady, with French bulldog in her lap, smoking cigarettes, wearing beautiful hat, talking very intelligently... Like Madame Palmyre. This is perfume of hughe presence. It crushes all in front and leaves ones behind full of insecurities. This fragnance doesn't negotiate, doesn't make compromise. It doesn't care what people, without complexity in their character think or have to say. Very very very intelligent perfume. It puts fear into bones of simple girls, simple characters, simple guys, even simple animals and plants. It's the ultimate perfume of lonely wolf Madame black. A witch in dark smoking wearing a bow. Cabochard was created by Bernard Chant, and launched in 1959. With total participation of Madame Gres. She had ideas, she expressed them, Chant respected them. Chant's signature style was the patchouli powdered chypre, which he used to create some of the most iconic scents of all time, including Grès Cabochard, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, and Aramis for example. His perfumes often had a muted animalic quality that alluded to sweat and the bedroom, which gave them a distinct and memorable character. Yes, amimalic. This scent is also very very animalic. Female that hunts, drinks whiskey and smokes a cigarette now and then. I mean look at the color of the perfume. Like very good old whiskey. "Chant's creations were revered by both perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike, with his concentrated perfumes leaving a trail of scent in the air that was both emotionally arid and incredibly present. Even when he ventured into fresher floral territories, there was always a suppressed emotionalism that gave his scents a depth and complexity that set them apart from the simplistic fragrances of his peers." Yes. Very much truth. It's emotional to the bones. Such a melancholic trip. It hurts. It's like trip that triggers desire to stop the time. To stay. It's a perfume of time we lost. It only exist in our melancholia hours. In our lonely hours. It a perfume of surviving old souls captured in time. This scent smells of tears. Of sorrow. It does. Robert was young and under the guidance of mentor Andrée Castanié, then editor of L'Officiel de la Mode et de la Couture, had been introduced to Mme Grès in 1956. But it took a trip to India, the land of exoticism, which prompted Alix Grès to further her plans on the house’s fragrance. The visit had begun innocuously, invited by the Ford Foundation to assess Indian brocades. It was there that Alix Grès discovered water hyacinth: a flower she became enraptured with. It has a sweet odour, rich like tuberose, yet with a fresher top and slightly warmer. Did you ever smell it? It doesn't smell like hyacinth you know. The floral facets of this glorious bloom are nuanced by vegetal, aquatic accents and sweet and spicy notes. Inhale the Heart notes of this scent. It's water hyacinth. It survives top notes flood and stretches the smell roots into Heart notes, even stays in traces, flirting (like in its own natural habitat), till the end. Cabochard starts with citrus and deep green notes. It is a dark fragrance right from the start, and the leather is apparent almost immediately. The floral notes are muted: when smelled from a distance they are barely noticeable, from up close, the jasmine is more obvious but still seems to weave in and out. Except water hyacinth! It dries down to an animalic leathery chypre with woods, moss, and a touch of smoke (maybe too much of smoke for many people). It stays very dry for the first hour, then starts to take on a hint of sweetness from the patchouli. If you use oil on your skin before using this perfume, use Argan or Sesame oil. The perfume will sink better into your skin and only after that you can see does it like you. It's not you liking this perfume. This perfume chooses you. "Cabochard utilised the same aromachemical with Bandit: isobutyl quinoline, a harsh green and pungent, dry leather aroma, yet fanning expensive, precious, sweet flowers over it. But silent. Inspired by the archetype it muted the smokiness until the drydown. Cabochard offers a capricious bitter orange opening instead, with the illusion of wading through wild bracken catching a distant whiff of clove and hairspray. The crackling leather, powdery afterfeel of face cosmetics was sustained for hours on skin, emitting grace and confidence in a similar manner to Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, although with rather more sweetness and less birch. To Gres it recalled a walk along a deserted Indian beach: “the crispness of the early morning air, the warmth of sandalwood, a hint of far-off flowers, and the dry caress of sea breezes”. Official notes are: Top notes: aldehydes, tarragon, water hyacinth, fruity notes, asafoetida, Italian bergamot, clary sage, Italian lemon, bitter orange and spice notes Middle notes: carnation, nutmeg, honeysuckle, clove, tuberose, orris, geranium, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, galbanum and ylang ylang Base notes: juniper, civet, castoreum, resins, Tonkin musk, tobacco, patchouli, vetiver, coconut, Moroccan oakmoss, sandalwood, leather, ambergris Unbelievable! Imagine you decided to put in order all of these notes. Ever saw something like that? No. Because it's unique. And parfumer managed to implement contrôle all over the place. Cabochard, as well as Chouda, is also extraordinary in that it was the already made and discarded stock of Guighard, a small glass manufacturer later acquired by Pochet. They had made the bottles for another company who never bought them and in order to save costs, Grès bought all 500 of them for both perfumes. The difference was the little bow that adorned the pharmaceutical stopper: grey for Cabochard, green for Chouda. The Cabochard success (it sold 250 bottles in the first week of its launch) secured numerous backorders to the glass manufacturer. In a way, the commercial success owed to the enthusiasm with which it was promoted by a commission salesman formerly working for Piguet (whose biggest seller at the time was Bandit). I love the bottle. Simple as that. This perfume stood the time. Like witches do. Like she said it will. "Cabochard to be a tribute to all women who, as I do, jealously guard treasured, heartfelt memories..." Alix Grès

Perfect for beatniks.

The renowned perfumer Bernard Chant stood out for his deep knowledge and expert handling of aldehydes, achieving a perfect balance in emblematic fragrances such as Cabochard. Chant, with his innate skill, masterfully created combinations of olfactory notes, culminating in the creation of a Leather-chypre of unprecedented tenacity and persistence, thus reflecting the visionary ingenuity of Madame Grès. CABOCHARD GRÈS -(Formula 80s) Cabochard begins with a symphony of harmonious, fresh and green herbal accords, highlighting galbanum and sage, nuanced with a touch of spice. This opening is wrapped in a veil of refined, slightly soapy aldehydes, which are intertwined with gently citrus and acidic notes. The fragrance quickly unfolds a floral heart, enriched with jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Ylang Ylang and iris absolute. These components, far from dominating with intensity, are presented in perfect harmony, offering a very light and refined touch. At the same time, it is enhanced by the robustness of the geranium, which provides a manly counterpoint, giving rise to an aura of sensuality and captivating femininity. As the perfume evolves, the leather accord composed with IBQ and a selection of complementary ingredients is revealed. With progression, oak moss intensifies harmonized with woods such as earthy patchouli, which intermingle with a very green vetiver. These ingredients extend into amber, musky and leathery accords, with castoreum and subtle nuances of smoked tobacco, which emanate the sublime beauty of a bygone era, giving depth, intensity, character and exceptional refinement to the composition. Cabochard perfectly embodies the fusion between classic and contemporary, offering a refined fragrance of indisputable elegance.

Aramis for Women Oh wait — since Bernard Chant made this first, Aramis is actually Cabochard for Men ! I love Aramis, like Cabochard…they’re similar but not the same. Aramis is powerful stuff! The first time I smelled it I was transported to a long-forgotten scene from my boyhood: a noisy smoky party at our house where one of Dad’s friends must have been wearing it. On one hand I felt uncomfortable, but on the other I felt totally safe and secure :-) Vintage Aramis seems “rounder and fuller” and a bit better IF you get a good bottle — which you might not! The current formula of Aramis is a bit “sharper” and a little less friendly but still very good and close enough to the old formula to spark a “scent memory" I’ve only tried the current version of Cabochard