Must de Cartier

Thinking of supernally powdery scents lately, ...so of course my thoughts would drift to the original Must. Though admittedly, it is a powder of a most unusual aspect and mien;...some may not even think of it as such. Actually, sampling this again now, a new olfactory allusion connects. One that never struck me before. The opening of Must de Cartier possesses a richly gourmet nuance of chocolate ...! Obviously a side-effect of living in this 21st Century gourmand-centric world. In any case, it is an exceptionally complex chocolate, an ultra-delectable kind many a chocolatier could only dream of. Such a delightfully entertaining discover, like finding a secret passage in a n old house you've lived in for years. Speaking of discoveries, this Fragrantica page is now telling me that Krazy by Kriza is similar to Must de Cartier. This is how Fragrantica can be most useful. But is that true? A direct comparison is called for. ...As in now! A.S.A.P. Later: Yes, there is a noticeable point of comparison in both of their dusty, ambered powders, especially near the opening (though Krazy is NOT suggesting chocolate). However, overall any similarity is too general to dwell upon. Krazy is lighter, brighter, more fruity, and sweeter overall. it's quite lovely for what it is, though it character does move it closer to the madding crowd. Must de Cartier is the deeper, darker, and more dreamily distinct of the two. Any comparison with Calvin Klein's Obsession is equally distant, though coming from a different and more overly spiced direction..

this was a veritable Jewel that came into my Attention Sphere from a dear friend, a colleague nurse who had also been a hooker. and of course we became best friends. she really married a millionaire and she had the stuff: a Cartier Wallet and this perfume when it launched. already in the 1970s I was buying perfumes that I liked and I think it must have been in the mid 1980s we were together and I smelled her Fabulous Perfume. as it goes with such things, I immediately knew that that perfume would be one of my pillar fragrances. it was so Opulent, Heady, Blousy, Seductive, Alluring, Sophisticated but also Over-The-Top, very Present, announcing her when she still stood outside ... we loved making all the scenes and gestes which according to us, belonged to such perfume. she had a real furcoat. we were both nurses but in this sense, outcasts. this perfume made clear it longed for her sisters: Giorgio, Poison, Obsession, Chanel Coco, No5, KL Karl Lagerfeld, Youth Dew, Beautiful, White Linen, YSL Y, Paris, Opium, Giorgio Beverly Hills Red. (but I seem to remember it was even before that perfume, before 1989. of course it was launched in the same year as Giorgio (1981) but it came under my scrutiny some years later.) what set it apart was the unbelievably Sophisticated Hautain Mien & Sets of Gestes it required or, seemed to require. what became slowly obvious to me was that the Perfumes of the Haute Joaillerie Brands were exquisely made and conspicuously voluptuous. there was already van Cleef & Arpels First, 'the' Gem, Boucheron, from Chopard diverse assortis ... but Cartier, Les Must, that was something Ultraspecial. the Civet, all the Flowers, Noble Woods, all the Resins which made this an Orientalist Floral Amber perfume. later (1988) with Panthère, they would do it all over again. I still have some perfume and the new iteration 'Must Gold'. but those times, I shall never forget.

Nana's perfume. Smells like Nana.

I wore this to death in the late 80s and early 90s it is singularly the most complimented perfume I own. If you’ve never smelt the vintage version it’s fantastic. GOAT!!!

This delirious thing was everywhere in airports back in the 80s . I absolutely carnivorously smelled and pounced on it in a duty free (big thing for Aussies with our luxury taxes ) ( amusing really if you think about people dropping thousands on overseas trips)( The irony of well off socialists). Whilst keeping my Mitsouko in a guarded safe for her own good, I went large with ‘fumes like this titan. It was on a ski trip to New Zealand that I grabbed her, a teeny little Parfum. It was a minute bottle that I used up in the two weeks I was mogul bashing and snow plowing, I tucked the empty into a drawer in a random house near the ski field I ended up in, to puzzle someone down the track, yes, really naughty, but no regrets. And here I am, transported with a photographic memory literally time travelling decades later to the exact place and time, Proust eat your heart out

This fragrance is exceptional. A hidden gem if you will. It pushes off skin and is very reminiscent of fragrances like Serge Lutens Chergui, Jovoy Psychadelique, and Serge Lutens Ambre Sulten. Its warm, ambery, slight fresh spicy aromatic and wonderfully intimate work of art that is a sensory bomb to wear.

Want to get noticed? NO, I mean do you REALLY want attention? You won't get it by debating whether you should smell like a cupcake or a peach pie. You won't get it by subliminally emitting ambroxan or iso e super. However, you will get it by wearing something just exactly like Must de Cartier, ...and god help you, you better be strong as steel because the attention this brings will crush the timid and devour the weak. Don't look at me. I'm just safely smelling it at home and visualizing the chaos this would cause. I want peace, not drama. What price fame?

Paper. Pretty paper.

I did not start subtle or $ in the fragrance world. A gorgeous combo of scents, decadent

This opens on a blast of… I don’t want to say nostalgia, because to call it that would be looking at it through a current-day lens. It wasn’t nostalgic when it was made—it was modern, corporate, woman-in-the-workforce, shoulder pads. In 2025, though, it does feel nostalgic. The best comparison I can conjure is an old bank; it actually does remind me of going with my father to the bank where he worked in the late 90s and early 2000s. The opening is very reminiscent of Dune by Dior—no surprise, since they share citrus, rosewood, and aldehydes at the top. (I get a bit of galbanum from Dune, too, even though it’s not listed on this site; i feels so similar to the bitter green at the top of this.) It even has a similar color juice—a bright orange-red to Dune’s more muted but still distinct orange. I want to love it as much as I love Dune, because it’s complex and daring in a way that so many 80s and 90s fragrances were, in a way that just doesn’t seem to exist anymore in mainstream perfumery, where the vast majority of scents from legacy houses are sickly gourmands, barely-there musks, nondescript floral flankers, or indistinguishable mass-market fruit-patchouli blends. (Cartier’s L’Heure Perdue might actually be one of the more experimental present-day scents from a legacy house.) Unfortunately, the civet in this shows up quickly on me, and it immediately goes very sour and unpleasant on my skin. Conceptually, I understand the value of putting an animalic in a composition like this—something Dune doesn’t do—but it just doesn’t work on my skin. Not in a “ooh, this is challenging, but let me work with it” way, but in a “it feels like something very unfortunate has been spilled on me” way. As a time capsule, I deeply respect it. As a perfume, I have to pass.

Smells like the wealthy, glamorous murderess in an episode of Colombo. She signs cheques with a fountain pen, drives a sports car with cream leather seats and wears expensive pant suits.

Probably my second fragrance ever!!!!!!! Only the OG from 1981. I have not had the current chance to use the new version. I savor this and it lasts forever. Another one spray story here!!!

Although Must de Cartier is about my age, I got to smell it only after the collapse of the Iron Curtain, when French perfumes finally reached my country. Back in the early nineties I was still a kid, and the women who wore this fragrance made quite an impression on me. One of those women was my then-best friend's mom, so this fragrance feels pleasantly nostalgic. Must de Cartier is one of the most luxurious fragrances ever created, right up there next to Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Chanel No 5 and other timeless masterpieces. I had this opulent oriental several years ago and have recently bought another bottle of it just to enjoy its scent again and reminisce about happier days. It is as ravishingly beautiful as I remember it, like an enchanting garden full of flowers and citrus trees next to an ancient temple in which incense is burned. The animal notes are subtle, complemented by a strong amber that smells divine. It blends wonderfully with the powdery, narcotic flowers and exotic woods and gives the fragrance its oriental character. This is a true masterpiece, and unfortunately hard to find in my country.

my favorite of my mom’s collection. the amber is rich and sweet on me while still being very woody. i feel like i associate this with her and with that rich bank waiting lounge smell. kinda unisex to me ngl but i like a very power femme leaning perfume. there’s something very nostalgic to it, it’s a very evocative perfume but a little goes a long way. and i mean that because the opening is VERY synthetic and pungent but that may just be from how old this bottle is and i only dabbed it about three times on my upper arm.

Must de Cartier is one of the crowning jewels for the house, one of the great classics which will forever command love and respect. There’s something so effortlessly comforting about this scent, it transports you to a realm free of worry and concern - until you take your nose away from your wrist. Jean-Jacques Diener used Shalimar as a principle structure for this release, particularly with the use of the vanilla here. It’s incredibly smooth, the vanilla, tonka and Sandalwood create this creamy, almost buttery and flowy effect, elevated by the delicate warmth of rosewood and carnation. It’s got a bit of a bite to it as well however, galbanum and leather take pride in disturbing what you thought would be a boring scent. It’s gorgeous, I love it. So incredibly elegant and refined, this is a scent which demands smart clothing in a sophisticated environment. But at the same time, it remains perfectly polite and understated - like a person who effortlessly glides through the room, capturing the attention of everyone around them without even saying a word.

I can't imagine anyone buy this fragrance and not falling in love with it 💛... I tested this because I love Must de Cartier Pour Homme... and if it’s possible or logical to pick a discontinued fragrance as a signature scent, it would be Must de Cartier Pour Homme for sure... it was the only fragrance I kept buying until it was unfortunately discontinued... Anyway as much as I wanted this to be similar to the MDC men's version, it surprised me differently (in a good way)... It’s a super classy and well-rounded version of Obsession for Men by CK (which I also love)... In fact, it’s closer to Obsession Men than Obsession Women ( I disagree with the votes up)... I've owned both, especially the men's version, multiple times... it's not like 80% close.. no, but it's a reminder like 30% to 40% . The scent profile is definitely classic 'old-school' type, but WOW it's so classy and luxurious... timeless and feels precious like gold👌 Personally, when I sprayed it, I instantly got smooth dark chocolate and amber with the vintage aldehyde touch... I can’t quite explain it as there is no chocolate listed in the notes... maybe the orris root is the reason, as I’m one of those who recall chocolate when I smell powdery notes... however, after a few minutes, it became closer to Obsession Men.. only much more feminine, refined and sophisticated... Yes, it's leaning more towards the mature feminine side.... But who cares? I’ll keep it on my list! 10/10

As we enter into the cooler months I've been aching to wear this. The sillage on this is lovely. The resins are humming on my skin right now. The aldehydes round this out to a warm, balanced bubble that pushes the buttery green florals out into space. It is a balsamic bomb that morphs as it wears. I wouldn't think this to be a good blind buy. However, if you like classic, earthy, rich, and woody scents this might be right up your alley. I agree with the comment below mine. This perfume is entirely reminiscent of old black and white films and Hollywood starlets. I imagine this smells gorgeous with cigarettes. Yeah, I know, smoking is bad for you. I gave it up 11 years ago. BUT, if I were smoking outside in the fall this would be my cignature scent.

Methinks the late great Tallulah Bankhead would have approved.

The reformulation of this is absolute garbage. But the original scent, i dont believe anybody would ever create a most perfect, sophisticated, luxurious scent ever. I mostly get the citrus and the aldehydes from this one, but its enough to make this my favorite scent ever. Red Carpet type of fragrance

Coming back soon! Cartier will relaunch this beauty!!

I just got a vintage bottle of this perfume, it was a blind buy. My first impression was of shock...darn I wasted my money, it smells like diesel fuel. But after a few minutes the fuel gets burned and it morphs into something delicious and warm and sophisticated. It smells like an aged smokey liquor of dried fruits and honey, I can't percieve a specific ingredient, maybe vanilla in the dried down part. I can't compare it to any of the other perfumes I have either...it seems quite unique to me, other than it fits with other great spicy orientals of the 80s and earlier fragances.

One of the classiest, most elegant scents. My friends mom wore this growing up and she always carried herself with such elegance and smelled classy. I had to know what she was wearing and it was this. I bought a mini and thought I had made a mistake...until I let it dry down, and I mean, really dry down. Don't be too scared at first spray. I would avoid sniffing this for at least 5 minutes because it smells completely different at first and once it dries is when the magic happens. So, if you spray this in a store, give it a chance and wait a bit because you'll be rewarded with a very smooth, sensual, elegant, feminine scent that has passed the test of time. It's musky, amber, woody, and slightly sweet.

I was lucky enough to find my way to Must in 1990…God! I wish I had known they'd reformulate it. I remember in the morning I had to be very careful to apply a small dab and share it between both wrists, eventually brushing them on my blouse. Not more than that, and the scent would still be there at nigh, after having evolved in so many unexpected ways. In my opinion Must cannot be discussed unless you have the opportunity to get the EdP issued before 1992, when (I'm talking about Italy) Must II was pushed in the shops to substitute it. For a rather long time Must was no longer available in the shops, making it likely MustII had taken its place. And then when it was back, it was reformulated. But no, MustII wasn't it. A work of true art sublime.

Can't stop drooling over this amazing fragrance. Love it's formulation, projection and longevity, it's like an exclusive scent made for all kinds of occasion. For me, it's an all-rounder and a killer one. It can make heads turn and impress boys! It's little sharp for me though but other than that it's a clear winner! I hope, I am able to cater the issue of sharpness with this fragrance or will look for an impression of this scent.

Sweet , thick , musky , leather , vanilla ! It’s a big YES for me ! ❤️❤️❤️

It smells like a woman at a party who has just come back from a cigarette break with a stick of mint chewing gum in her mouth.

I first encountered Must de Cartier some time ago whilst perusing the Neiman-Marcus perfume counters and mustering the courage to visit the ladies' fragrances counter. I was finally willing to take a dip in the "lady pond" and the rest was history. I was struck by the vivid orange color of the juice and the decidedly not-so-current design of the bottle (come to find out this was the 2000s formulation and the fragrance had already been around for over twenty years). I remember one of my first thoughts was, "gee, if I like this and purchase it, obviously NOT here at Neiman-Marcus, the bottle looks like that of a masculine." This was clearly a number of years ago. I sniffed it and was immediately floored. This sharp green like the crack of the whip, layered over a vanilla and some fruit, whoa, I immediately fell in love. Thus started my love affair with the galbanum/vanilla contrast, which we would find in the original Calvin Klein Obsession, the Original Moschino, Krazy Krizia, among others (I have the and love the latter two, Obsession seems redundant at this point). I love the sweet fruit syrup rendered somewhat bitter and astringent through the galbanum. It reminds me a bit of biting into a not so ripe peach and chewing on citrus rinds. This settles into musty, dusty, dry florals with the vanillic amber and leathery undertones fading into the mix. The dry down is billowy, sensual, nuzzle-musky, with traces of green evident. I will always remember this (along with Hermes Caleche and Van Cleef & Arpels First) on that fateful day, as my jettisoning any care as to how fragrance is gendered, and I now think of how much beauty I would have missed if I constrained myself to male-marketed scents.

Perry Woman by Perry Ellis has some comforting green notes that are softly blended into a warm spice base & remind me of my Must de Cartier 1 oz sample that I had. I don't recall if it was EDP or EDT. But I do remember having instant recognition that Perry Woman reminded me of Must de Cartier. Perry Woman sells for under $15 dollars as well. Probably not as full bodied, etc. but very, very nice for what it is. I never had Calvin Klein Obsession, so I cannot reference that one.

Sexy. Expensive. High class. Unafraid. She knows what she wants and she gets it! Woody, powdery elegance. This perfume must (haha) be worn by the right person or it will wear you.

First whiffs of this perfume are great, musty, with dominant sandalwood, Brazilian rosewood also a little sweetness of tonka beans. With that being said, drydown is very different and this notes become negligible, the scent turns into spicey babypowder, which I'm not really a fan of. Worth testing if you like rather mature scents.